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İSTANBUL Hippodrome (At Meydani)

The Hippodrome (At Meydani) was the center of the city's public life during centuries. Its construction was started by Roman Emperor Septimius Severus in 203. It was enlarged and richly embellished by Constantine the Great and after him, many emperors rivalled to adorn it. The hippodrome was approximately 400 m/ 438 yards in length and 120 m/ 131 yards in breadth. At the northern end were the "carceres", stalls for the horses and "bigae", two-horse chariots, and "quadrigae", four-horse chariots. Here were also the charioteers' (aurigae) barracks. On top of the central arch above the carceres stood four gilded bronze horse statues attributed by Pliny the Elder to Lysippus. Also above the carceres, close to the north-east corner, arose the "kathisma", a miniature palace with the Imperial loge in front. The kathisma (located approximately on the site of Emperor Wilhem II Fountain) was connected to the Great Palace. The race track was surrounded by high walls with many doorways, by stands and colonnaded galleries. Storehouses extended under the tiers of seats. Because of a level difference, the southern portion of the Hippodrome, terminated in a semicircle (the sphendone), was elevated on massive vaults. In the middle of the Hippodrome was the "spina", a central axis endowed with various monuments and statues. The Hippodrome is thought to have had a capacity of 100.000 spectators. Here, athletic activities, various games and chariot races took place, giving rise to stakes among the people who were divided between two opponent political and religious factions who took their names from the two colors worn by the charioteers (originally there were four colours, but the Reds and Whites were aborbed by the two others): the Blues, who represented the upper classes and upheld the Orthodox doctrine, and the Greens who represented the lower classes and upheld the Monophysitism doctrine. The Blues seated in the stands to the left of the imperial box, and the Greens seated in the right stands. The emperors, according to their tendendies, used to protect one of the factions. On the other hand, the people would openly show their support or displeasure for the emperor. This kind of situation sometimes ended with political demonstrations or an uprising of one of the factions. However, in January 532, the two factions joined in the Nika revolt against Emperor Justinian and Empress Theodora (nika was the people's cry which meant "victory" during the games) when a part of the city was burnt down. Justinian was prepared to flee, but Theodora's courage and determination saved the situation. General Belisarius crushed the rebellion by killing 30,000-40,000 persons whom he surrounded in the Hippodrome.

During the Fourth Crusade in 1204, the doge of Venice, Enrico Dandolo, ordered the Latins to sack the city. The Hippodrome was destroyed and plundered. He had the four gilded bronze horses, mentioned above, wrenched from their mountings and sent to Venice with many other riches: they were placed on top of the facade of the San Marco church. In 1797 Napoleon sent the statues as spoils of war to Paris where they were placed on top of the Arch of Carrousel, but upon his defeat the horses were taken back to Venice where they still remain. Following the Ottoman conquest, the Hippodrome, taking the Turkish name "At Meydanı" (horse square) was used to train horses and for the equestrian game of cirit. The Hippodrome was the scene of Janissary rebellions but also of splendid festivities with parades and fireworks, like on the occasion of the marriage of Princess Hatice (a sister of Süleyman the Magnificent) to Grand Vizier İbrahim Pasha (whose palace stands on the western side of the Hippodrome) in 1524, or on the occasion of the circumcision feast held for Süleyman's sons Mustafa, Mehmet, and Selim in 1530.

Today, only three monuments of the Spina have remained in situ:

- The Egyptian Obelisk of Thutmosis III (ca 1500 BC, a monolith of pink granite, comes from Karnak in Egypt. Probably transferred sometime in the 4th century at Constantine I or at one of his successor's behest, the obelisk remained many years in Alexandria waiting to be shipped to Constantinople. Once arrived, it had to wait again until it was raised in 390 by Theodosius, hence its name Obelisk of Theodosius. The hieroglyphs praise Tutmosis III, relating the pharaoh's victorious military campains in Mesopotamia and depicting him making offering to the god Amon-Re who also leads him by the hand (at the top). The obelisk, which rests on four bronze pedestals and a marble base, is 19 m/ 60 ft in height and 25 m/ 80 ft including the full base. Originally, it was much taller but a part was broken probably during its shipment to Constantinople.
On the lower part of the base there are Greek and Latin inscriptions, low reliefs depicting the erection of the obelisk on the hippodrome, and chariot races around the spina where it was erected. On the upper part of the base, the low reliefs depict the following scenes: on the east face (facing the Blue Mosque), Emperor Theodosius is shown with his two his sons, Arcadius and Honorius, distributing prizes to the winners of the races. On the north face (facing the German Fountain), Emperor Arcadius is shown together with his wife, seated in the Kathisma. On the west face, Theodosius is show together with his wife and his sons, receiving the tribute paid by the defeated enemies of the Empire. On the south face, the Emperor is shown, enthroned, watching chariot races with his family and surrounded by guards.

- The Serpentine Column was originally erected in front of the Temple of Appolo in Delphi. The column, made of three entwined serpents supporting a huge golden bowl on their (now missing) heads, was a donation of the 31 Greek cities federacy who melted the spoils of war they obtained after they defeated the Persians at the battle of Plataea in 479 BC. The column is thought to have been brought by Constantine I in the 4th century AD. The upper jaw of one of the serpents' head is on display at the Archaeological Museum.

- The Column of Constantine Porphyrogenetus is made of stone blocks placed on a marble base. All what is known about this Byzantine monument is that it was restored and embellished in the 10th century by Constantine VII Porphyrogenetus. In 1204 during the Fourth Crusade, the bronze relief plaques that adorned the column were ripped off and melted down for re-use. The bottom of the pit approximately indicates the original level of the Hippodrome.

- Emperor Wilhem II Fountain (Alman Çesmesi, the German Fountain) was offered by Kaiser Wilhem II to sultan Abdülhamit to mark his second visit to the Ottoman capital in 1898 and to commemorate the alliance of German and Ottoman powers. Brought from Germany, the fountain was inaugurated on the Hippodrome in January 1901 on the site of what was the Byzantine Emperor’s Lodge. The fountain, made of marble, has an octogonal shape and the interior of its dome is covered with mosaics. The fountain stands at the north side of the Hippodrome where the main entrance was situated.


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